On sláinte and seisiún

In Irish, “sláinte” is the colloquial term used for toasts and other cheers. My Irish grandmother often uses it at birthday and holiday celebrations to start a meal and celebrate our family’s togetherness. This summer I had the incredible opportunity to travel to Ireland for two and a half weeks. Going into the trip, I was relatively nervous because it was my first time traveling alone internationally, but I was mostly excited for the chance to experience a foreign yet familiar culture in such an immersive way. So I boarded an Aer Lingus flight with my suitcase and guitar, looking forward to the time I would spend across the pond. 

When I landed in Dublin, I immediately noticed little differences in the airport, like how people walk on the left side of the walkway. There was even a sign in baggage claim reminding people to plan for driving on the left. I thought it was cool how all of the signs were in both English and Irish, even though Irish isn’t a widely spoken language anymore (although it is undergoing a revival). 

The biggest difference I noticed, however, was the hospitality of the Irish people. When I got on my bus leaving Dublin, I put on my headphones, expecting to sit alone with no interactions with other passengers. But the woman who sat down next to me had other plans and immediately struck up a conversation. Delighted to learn I was from the U.S., she chatted with me about my visit, my Irish heritage and my not-so-Irish last name, amidst a wide array of small talk topics for almost the entire bus ride. Then, when I missed my connecting bus to my final destination, an elderly lady helped me find alternate transportation. I greatly appreciated the kindness that people showed to me throughout my time in Ireland.

My pattern of meeting lovely people continued when I arrived in Achill, a small island town off of County Mayo in the west of Ireland. I was participating in a traditional Irish music program, as were many other people on the island. Music has a funny way of connecting people of all ages and backgrounds, and Achill facilitated those connections for me. Several people staying in the same bed-and-breakfast offered me rides around the island to get to music class during the day and pubs at night; in both environments, I had some of the most fun and interesting conversations I’ve ever had. I was asked about everything American, from the election to Raising Cane's, and I got to learn about the Irish education system, political scene and everyone’s connection (no matter how remote) to Olympic gold medalist Daniel Wiffen. And, of course, I played and listened to so much good music. 

Irish music has always been a part of my life, but I became particularly interested in learning to play it when I visited Ireland with my extended family in 2023. Having the opportunity to learn from seasoned traditional musicians was an incredible experience, and I was able to attend both classes and seisiúns — gatherings of Irish musicians that celebrate the rich culture of music and community in an informal setting. While I learned so much from the classes, the most important lessons were taught in the seisiúns, where anywhere from three to a dozen musicians crowd into the corner of a pub and just play. There isn’t a planned repertoire, and anyone can come and play on any instrument. On my guitar, I accompanied button accordions, wooden flutes and tin whistles, Uilleann pipes, banjos, fiddles and more. I loved learning how all the instruments mesh together to create a beautiful sound.   

Playing in both formal and informal settings, and partaking in small but meaningful conversations allowed me to interact with the Irish people and culture through music in a special way this summer. I feel so fortunate to have been immersed in this beautiful culture through something so important to them and to me. I’d like to propose a toast to the Irish people: Thank you for your warm welcome and sharing your music with me. Sláinte!

Claire Nalda is a sophomore from Springfield, Va. majoring in International Studies; Public Health Studies; and Latin American, Caribbean, and Latinx Studies.