Cheolsoo "Charles" Lee, co-founder of Café Dear Leon, brings fresh, flavorful French pastries to Canton, blending classic techniques with his roots. In an interview with The News-Letter, he shared his journey from culinary school to entrepreneurship, along with the challenges and cherished memories of running the business.
The News-Letter: What inspired you to open your café? How did it all come together?
Charles Lee: Where do I start? I met my business partner, Min Kim, back in college — we were roommates at the Culinary Institute of America in upstate New York. We always talked about opening a business together, but, after graduating, we went our separate ways. I worked in Michelin-starred restaurants in New York City, and he pursued his own path.
Then, right before COVID-19, we started discussing opening a business again. We found a space in Canton and signed the lease. Then, a month later, the pandemic hit.
Even though we had fine dining backgrounds, we decided to open a small coffee shop first. We didn’t have a lot of capital and wanted to start smal l— get to know the neighborhood and integrate ourselves into the community. My wife, who I also met in culinary school, joined us. She specialized in pastry and encouraged us to expand beyond just coffee.
We started by making croissants by hand and serving great coffee. The neighborhood showed us so much love and support. We began with a small production, but demand kept growing, and somehow, we’ve expanded to where we are today.
N-L: You mentioned being in the Canton area. Do you think the local community has influenced your bakery?
CL: Absolutely. Our menu changes monthly to keep things seasonal and fresh. When introducing new items, I try to incorporate local flavors like crab, corn and squash. While our products are based on French techniques — like croissants and laminated brioche — my Korean heritage naturally influences our offerings. For example, our Tamago Sando is inspired by a Japanese-style egg salad sandwich, something we grew up eating.
N-L: Your background is in French pastry. Would you say your baking style is more traditional, or do you experiment with your Korean heritage?
CL: We were trained in classic French techniques at culinary school and worked mainly in French restaurants. So, our foundation is traditional French. However, our culture naturally folds in because that's what we grew up eating. We try to incorporate the flavors we know with the techniques we've trained in to create something unique and true to ourselves.
N-L: Do you have a favorite item on the menu or one that has special meaning to you?
CL: I would say the croissant. I taught myself the art of making croissants by reading books and watching lectures. It took quite a while to understand what it takes to make them well. The croissant is something I feel very proud of because of the effort, time and passion I put into it.
N-L: For someone visiting your café for the first time, what's the one thing they absolutely have to try?
CL: It depends on if they prefer savory or sweet.
For savory, I recommend the ham and cheese croissant. We use a classic French cheese sauce called sauce mornay, which makes the cheese part creamy and pairs perfectly with the salty ham and crispy croissant.
For sweet, I’d suggest the crème brûlée tart. The tart shell is made from croissant dough, making it lighter and crispier than traditional tarts. The filling is a silky vanilla custard with a hint of cinnamon, and it's topped with a caramelized sugar crust for that perfect crunch.
N-L: I also noticed on your website that you have an unique bake schedule of baking items throughout the day and having certain items planned at certain times, which isn’t something I’ve seen before. What made you choose that system, and how do customers feel about it?
CL: The main reason we implemented the bake schedule is that we believe the best way to serve our guests is by offering the freshest pastries possible. Since I didn’t come from a traditional bakery background, I always wondered why bakeries didn’t serve bread and pastries fresh out of the oven. Typically, by the time customers get them, they’ve already been sitting out for a while.
So, we decided to introduce a schedule where customers know exactly when items are coming out of the oven. This way, they can plan their visit and be guaranteed the freshest pastries. It’s definitely unfamiliar for some guests at first, and it can take time for them to get used to it. But once they experience the difference, they really appreciate it.
Of course, this means I have to be in the kitchen as early as 3 a.m. to make sure everything is ready on time, but I think it’s worth it.
N-L: Wait, you start your day at 3 a.m.? Is that typical for you?
CL: Every day. And not just me — the whole pastry team starts early.
N-L: When do you usually wrap things up?
CL: The pastry team finishes around 1 or 2 p.m. There’s also a separate team that comes in later in the day for prep work.
N-L: Outside of all the delicious food you’ve mentioned, when people walk into Café Dear Leon, what kind of experience do you hope they have?
CL: Since our café is a small establishment, the first thing guests see when they walk in is our display case. It’s not big, but we keep it neat, organized and full of fresh pastries. I want people to feel excited when they see everything laid out. Like a kid in a candy store.
Our front-of-house team works hard to make sure everyone is knowledgeable about our products. They are there to help guests, especially first-timers, figure out what they might enjoy the most. We also have a menu with detailed descriptions in the waiting area outside, so guests can get a sense of what’s available before they even step inside.
N-L: Running a bakery — or any business — isn’t easy. What do you think has been the biggest challenge since opening?
CL: The biggest challenge has definitely been balancing life and work. Since this is my own business, I put 100% of myself into it, and it’s easy to get burned out. I’ve experienced burnout a few times and had to learn how to manage my time better.
Now, I try to set limits, like not working too many hours a day and making sure to take at least one day off a week. I also take a vacation once a year. It’s not just about rest; it’s also a chance to experience new things and get inspired.
N-L: Has any of your travel influenced items on the menu?
CL: Definitely. Last summer, I introduced a mango Danish inspired by a trip to Cancún. I had this amazing mango there, and I wanted to create a pastry that captured that flavor. I added Thai spices to give it a bit of a twist; it’s something fresh but also unexpected.
Earlier last year, I visited Korea, where bagels were surprisingly popular. That got me thinking: Should we make bagels at the bakery? So, we started offering them on weekends as a special item.
N-L: Looking back, what’s one piece of advice you would give to your past self before opening the bakery?
CL: Honestly? I would tell myself not to overthink it.
This was my first business, and I had no fear because I didn’t know what was ahead of me. If I had known all the challenges I’d face, I might have hesitated. But sometimes, not knowing is a good thing. It allows you to take the leap.
Running a business is full of valuable lessons, not just for work but for life. I’m really happy I took this path, and I still love what I do every day.
N-L: That’s such an interesting perspective. So, what do you love most about what you do? What keeps you passionate about baking every day?
CL: I genuinely love cooking and baking. To me, it’s an act of giving, of showing care for others. That’s something I always remind my team: We are not making these pastries for ourselves. We are making them for the people who will enjoy them.
I try to set aside my own ego and focus on creating the best experience for our guests. Hospitality is about more than just food — it’s about creating a space where people feel welcome and happy. That’s something my business partner and I deeply believe in.
At the end of the day, nothing brings me more joy than knowing that what we create brings joy to others.
N-L: Do you have a favorite memory with a customer — maybe a moment that really stuck with you?
CL: We have a lot of customers from Hopkins Hospital — both staff and patients. There’s one guest who used to come in regularly during her chemotherapy treatments. One day, she came in and told us that she was finally cancer-free. It was such an emotional moment, and we were so happy for her. It meant a lot to know that, in some small way, we had been part of her journey.
Moments like that remind me why we do this. Our café isn’t just a business; it’s a part of the community.
