The owner and chef of Sotto Sopra, Riccardo Bosio, shares his approach to cooking and how he made the Mount Vernon restaurant a premier destination for Italian fine dining in Baltimore.
The News-Letter: Tell me about Sotto Sopra. Could you share the story of how it got started?
Riccardo Bosio: Well, I started Sotto Sopra in 1996 in Mount Vernon. The name Sotto Sopra means “up and down.” “Sotto” means down, and “Sopra” means up. I’m from Bergamo, a city in Italy that’s literally divided into two parts —the sotto (lower) part and the sopra (upper) part. Whenever you say you’re from Bergamo, people ask, “Are you from Sotto or Sopra?”
But the name has another meaning — it represents something unexpected or turned upside down. For example, when your mother says, “Your room is sotto sopra,” she’s saying it’s upside down and needs to be fixed.
When naming the restaurant, I wanted something unique — something that reflected my creative approach to Italian food. At Sotto Sopra, we are not about traditional, predictable dishes like you might find in Little Italy. Here, you’ll discover something eclectic and inspired. For example, I added a Spanish dish to the menu after a trip to Spain. Sotto Sopra is about reimagining what Italian food can be.
N-L: Who are the gears behind Sotto Sopra? What does it look like staff-wise?
RB: I’ve had the same core team for 15 years. Most of them started as dishwashers and now run the place — it’s like a family. My own two kids, who are 11 and 14, are involved too. They don’t work full-time, of course — they go to school. But I’m teaching them the value of serving people. Restaurants are great for life education.
N-L: That’s so true. I worked in a restaurant once, and it was a valuable experience. How did you get into cooking?
RB: I grew up with five siblings and one paycheck, so there was never much food on the table. A friend told me about a school in Italy where you could learn cooking and eat as much as you wanted. That sounded like heaven to me, so I enrolled. I thought it was the coolest thing — learning to cook and eating at the same time. That’s how it all started.
N-L: Would you say food was a big part of your family life growing up?
RB: Absolutely. We never missed dinner at the table. With five kids, meals were always about family and connection.
N-L: How did you decide to enter the restaurant industry? What have you enjoyed — and maybe not enjoyed — about running a restaurant?
RB: For me, restaurants are all about hospitality. I came to the U.S. at 21 and growing up Italian, I already understood hospitality — it’s in my blood. I’m good at understanding what guests want and delivering that experience. It’s not always easy, but the joy of making people happy keeps me going.
COURTESY OF SOTTO SOPRA
Bosio and his customers enjoy a cheerful laugh together on camera.
N-L: I saw on your Instagram that you mentioned bouncing back after COVID. How did you navigate the challenges of the pandemic? Has it changed how you approach the business?
RB: It was tough, no question. But the community supported us. We started an online pizza business to recoup some losses, and it worked out well. It was a reminder of how adaptable we have to be.
N-L: On your social media, you also highlight Maryland ingredients. How do you blend local flavors with Italian cuisine?
RB: We use the best of both worlds. Some ingredients, like mozzarella and fresh cheeses, come directly from Italy — we get them through FedEx every Thursday. But for produce and other fresh items, we source locally from suppliers in Jessup and Columbia. Maryland has its own culinary identity, and we embrace that in our dishes.
N-L: What inspires the dishes you create?
RB: My childhood in Italy is my biggest influence. For example, I’m crazy about mushrooms because I grew up in the mountains. I also love Gorgonzola cheese — it’s from a city near where I grew up. My upbringing on a farm taught me to appreciate fresh, high-quality ingredients, and that inspires everything I make.
N-L: What’s your cooking philosophy?
RB: Keep it simple — never more than three ingredients. Simplicity is the hardest thing to achieve in cooking, but it’s also the most rewarding. Great food starts with the best ingredients, like olive oil, balsamic vinegar and mozzarella. Beyond that, I cook based on how I feel. If I feel good, that feeling goes into the dish and reaches the customer.
N-L: Why did you choose Mount Vernon as the home for Sotto Sopra?
RB: I was working as a private chef for the Italian ambassador in Washington, D.C. when I met some Italian investors. They owned a building in Mount Vernon and invited me to open a restaurant there. In 1996, Baltimore’s food scene was practically nonexistent, so we built Sotto Sopra from the ground up. Now, I own the building.
N-L: That’s amazing. How has Sotto Sopra shaped Mount Vernon’s culture?
RB: Mount Vernon has changed a lot. Unfortunately, many people have moved to Harbor East, and we’ve lost some of the vibrancy. But we’re working to bring it back. Events like our Peabody Nights, where musicians from the Peabody Institute perform, help reconnect the community through arts and culture.
N-L: You’ve also introduced the Opera Night, which is a signature event for Sotto Sopra. How did those start?
RB: Opera is such a big part of Italian culture. My brother came up with the idea after seeing a show, and we invited a singer to perform at the restaurant. It’s been a hit ever since. We don’t just play opera as background music — we share the story behind each piece so guests can connect with it.
COURTESY OF SOTTO SOPRA
Every month, Opera Night offers an unforgettable treat for your ears and taste buds.
N-L: Let’s move to some fun, quick questions. What’s the most popular dish at Sotto Sopra versus your personal favorite?
RB: Fried polenta is the most popular, but my personal favorite is spinach ravioli.
N-L: Why spinach ravioli?
RB: It’s simple, timeless and always done well.
N-L: If you had to describe Sotto Sopra as a dish, what would it be?
RB: Risotto. It’s not the most popular dish anymore, but it’s what put us on the map in Baltimore back in 1996.
N-L: Now, a fun one — do you believe in pineapple on pizza?
RB: On my dead body (laughs).
N-L: Good to know! Lastly, what’s a phrase or motto you live by?
RB: Be happy and live every day like it’s your last. If you make it to midnight, thank God.
N-L: That’s a great philosophy. What lasting impression do you hope customers take away from their visit to Sotto Sopra?
RB: That they leave happy. That’s all I want — for people to feel joy when they walk out the door.
