Meet Lane Harlan, owner and co-founder of Clavel. In an interview with The News-Letter, she shares how she integrated her travel experiences to create Baltimore’s most acclaimed Mexican bar, along with her insights as the founder of multiple businesses in the restaurant industry.
The News-Letter: Could you share the story of how Clavel was founded back in 2015? How did you and your business partner Carlos meet, and what inspired the idea of Clavel?
Lane Harlan: I first opened a cocktail bar with my husband Matthew in 2013 called WC Harlan. We had been working hard that year, so we took a short trip to Oaxaca to relax. While there, we discovered mezcal, fell in love with it and decided to bring it back to Baltimore to share with people and educate them about this beautiful spirit. At that time, we thought about opening a small mezcal bar.
When we returned, we started looking for properties. It turned out there was a building for sale one block from WC Harlan. The building was a restaurant with a large open kitchen, and we felt it would be a shame to get rid of the kitchen, so it seemed natural to turn it into a restaurant.
Around the same time, I was visiting my sister and her family in Sinaloa, Mexico. My sister’s husband has a younger brother Carlos who is very creative. He wasn’t happy with his job, and we always enjoyed the beautiful, traditional food their family cooked. We thought, “What if Carlos wanted to be the chef?” This way, we could not only have a mezcal bar but also serve food! Carlos agreed, and that’s really how Clavel started — a family business where we could share mezcal and serve delicious food. Carlos is still our chef and partner in the business.
COURTESY OF TERRAGOLD PHOTO
Clavel’s white stucco walls and exposed-beam ceiling make visitors feel as though they are in a small Mexican town.
N-L: You started traveling around Mexico in 2013 for research, particularly about mezcal. Could you talk about what you learned during those trips and how you integrated those experiences into Clavel?
LH: Absolutely. One of the first things I learned is that mezcal is a broad category: it’s not just one type. Mezcal is made all over Mexico in many different ways and with different agave species. Due to the denomination of origin [designation], some traditional mezcals can’t be labeled as mezcal even though they follow authentic methods. It’s similar to how only cheese from a certain area in Italy can be called parmesan.
Mezcal has various subcategories, such as tequila, which is technically a type of mezcal with its own denomination of origin. Mezcal’s diversity across regions and production methods makes it a fascinating and complex spirit. Each village or distillery, often a small family operation, has its own methods of fermentation and distillation using natural materials and resources from the local environment. This uniqueness and complexity are what make mezcal so special.
N-L: Speaking of ingredients, Clavel sources items like corn for tortillas and sugar cane for cocktails from producers in Mexico. Could you explain why you chose to do that, and how you maintain relationships with these producers?
LH: We want to know the names of our producers and have transparency in our relationships. For example, with mezcal, I know where the agave was sourced, who distilled it and if prices change, I understand why. Knowing where our money goes gives us a better sense of sustainability. We know that the money we spend supports families who have been making mezcal for generations.
COURTESY OF TERRAGOLD PHOTO
Wrapped in fresh, handmade tortillas, Clavel's tacos feature traditional preparations like cochinita pibil, carnitas, barbacoa and lengua.
N-L: That’s why the food at Clavel is so good — I love it! You’ve founded several bars, like WC Harlan and Fadensonnen. Where do you find inspiration for creating different types of bars and how do you balance those ventures?
LH: Inspiration comes from travel and time. My husband, our daughter and I try to travel as much as possible, absorbing different cultures and experiences. When we return, it gives us a fresh perspective on our own city. Comparing and contrasting these experiences helps us write menus, create ambiance and offer great hospitality.
Time is another factor. Once a business is running well with a strong team and reliable systems, the itch to create something new often arises. The challenge and adrenaline of starting a new venture are exciting for us as creative people.
N-L: Could you share a bit about what it’s like to start a business with your partner? What’s the secret to your partnership, and how do you handle disagreements?
LH: My husband and I have very different roles which is key. We’re both creative and care about details, but I’m more involved in menus, management and training, while he focuses on the behind-the-scenes work like maintenance and physical labor. This division of labor works well for us, as we complement each other’s strengths and focus on different aspects of the business.
N-L: How have you maintained operational excellence and service quality despite the complexities in your business?
LH: The best thing we have going for us is our people. In the beginning, I did everything myself from bartending to managing. Over time, I identified team members who showed leadership qualities and commitment to the business. We promote people who show themselves to be responsible, receptive to feedback and committed to the business’ success. The trust and strong relationships we’ve built with our team enable us to maintain high standards and continue expanding while ensuring quality.
N-L: How do you ensure staff feel engaged with their responsibilities and enjoy their experience?
LH: We hire people with great personalities and give them the freedom to be themselves without rigid uniforms or scripted sales pitches. Listening to their feedback and maintaining ergonomic stations are key to creating an environment where they can succeed and provide excellent service.
COURTESY OF TERRAGOLD PHOTO
Clavel is celebrated for its lively atmosphere and exceptional service, frequently attracting long lines of eager patrons.
N-L: Let’s talk about Clavel’s menu. What are some of the most popular items and what are your personal favorites?
LH: The queso fundido is probably the most popular item — people just love hot cheese! It’s been on the menu since day one, and although it’s not my personal favorite, it’s a must-have for many. My favorite is the aguachile: a dish specific to Sinaloa. It’s raw shrimp marinated in lime juice, spicy and zesty — a perfect pairing with a mezcal cocktail!
N-L: Moving on to the bar, what are some of the proudest cocktail creations from the Clavel team?
LH: One of my proudest creations is our margarita. I experimented extensively with the recipe, eventually eliminating orange liqueur which I didn’t think belonged. The result was a fresher, more delicious margarita, using the best tequila and fair-trade panela for sweetness. Although we have a creative cocktail menu, the margarita remains a favorite: it’s a classic done really well.
N-L: What’s the process for developing a new cocktail for the menu?
LH: We change the menu twice a year, once in spring or summer and once in fall or winter. The process begins months in advance with our team workshopping ideas and refining recipes. We also travel to Oaxaca each March to meet with producers and gain inspiration — this annual trip has become an essential part of our creative process.
N-L: What community-oriented projects has Clavel been involved in?
LH: Clavel is committed to giving back through annual fundraisers, donations to local schools and support for various causes. We’ve done fundraisers for women’s shelters, clothing drives for immigrant children and events for Doctors Without Borders. Recently, we held a fundraiser for one of our coworkers who was diagnosed with cancer. We also partner with TasteWise Kids [and] we donate a portion of our proceeds.
We even have a mezcal tasting bar where 10% of sales go directly to the producers. This money doesn’t go through a nonprofit; it goes straight to the people who need it. For instance, one of our producers had a severe eye infection that required medical attention, so we helped cover their medical bills. Another producer needed a new wood chipper for their agave fields, and we helped fund that. We try to be involved in ways that directly benefit the people who work with us.
N-L: What are some lasting impressions you hope your customers take away from their visits to Clavel?
LH: I hope they feel like they were transported — like they traveled somewhere special without having to get on a plane. I want them to feel a sense of warmth, community and authenticity that stays with them long after they leave.
