COURTESY OF KAJA NICOLAISEN
The Inner Harbor at night.
When I am at Baltimore’s Inner Harbor, I feel right at home. My hometown Hamburg is built around rivers and ports, so every time I see ships, water and container cranes, my heart jumps a little. But even though I feel the resemblance like waves in my veins, Baltimore is also completely different from everything I know, and I am growing fonder of this eclectic city with every new part that I discover.
Apart from enjoying the maritime flair of the harbor, I also love to stroll the colorful streets of Fells Point and Hampden. I have scoured the aisles of cozy bookstores, such as Greedy Reads and Red Emma’s, and marveled at the rows upon rows of free books that Book Thing offers every month.
One very special tradition that my roommate and I had the privilege to witness was the Toilet Bowl Races. They take place in Hampden every year in September. It was an absolute blast to see so many people from Baltimore come together and cheer on incredibly creative toilet bowl wagons like the Mad Max-inspired “Flusharosa.” Similarly odd but also weirdly charming is the Bazaar on Chestnut Avenue where you can buy macabre postcards, animal skulls or molded tarantulas. I did not lose my appetite in that store, so I could delight in the delicious ice cream at The Charmery on the next street corner.
Speaking of food, Baltimore has so much to offer. Of course, there is Ekiben, but I have also tried crabs and other delicious seafood at Captain James Crabhouse and munched on marvelous sandwiches at the Common Grounds Café. The only thing missing was some actual bread. I could not find anything even remotely like the bread I know from home until I discovered Motzi Bread. Thanks to this unique bakery, I could give my fellow German friend the perfect sourdough birthday gift.
COURTESY OF KAJA NICOLAISEN
Fell’s Point flashing its charm.
Between all these amazing experiences, sometimes I also need a moment to relax. I am an absolute film nerd, so I tend to watch something to wind down and I am always on the lookout for something new. You might relate, so here are some German films and TV shows that are definitely worth a watch.
Victoria (2015, directed by Sebastian Schipper) is a nearly two-and-a-half-hour one-shot, and it sucks you into Berlin nightlife in an instant. Victoria from Spain is out partying when she meets a group of young German troublemakers. What begins as a fun night with newly found friends turns into a nail-biting suspense-fest – pure thrill all in a single take. I have never seen a film like this before, and I do not think I ever will again.
The drama System Crasher (2019, directed by Nora Fingscheidt) delivers a similarly strong punch to the gut. Nine-year-old Benni is on the constant move through the foster care system, unable to find a place to call home because no one is equipped to handle her anger outbursts. No one knows what to do until she becomes friends with her school counselor who has a way with Benni thanks to his own troubled past. This film crushed me with its heart-wrenching family tragedies unfolding onscreen and also with the blossoming friendships, empathy and never-ending hope. I suggest bringing some tissues along with the popcorn.
A Coffee in Berlin, originally titled Oh Boy (2012, directed by Jan-Ole Gerster), is a black and white dramedy tribute to Berlin. Niko is a law school dropout drifting through the city, encountering various fellow lone souls in a single day all while looking for a cup of coffee. I simply love watching lead actor Tom Schilling and his ability to bring his melancholic yet strangely funny signature to every role he takes on.
Speaking of homages to Berlin, I have to mention Peter Fox. I am proud to say that his was the first concert I ever went to. Ten-year-old me already had good taste in music. However, I am not alone. Whenever music tastes clash at a party, put on a song from Peter Fox’s Stadtaffe album and everyone will lose it to the music. Get ready for some rough rap and raw rhythm in your bones. My personal favorites would be the songs “Alles Neu,” “Schüttel deinen Speck” and “Schwarz zu Blau,” but when he is not working solo, Peter Fox also makes great music with his band SEEED. It is impossible to sit still when they play.
It has also been largely impossible for me to sit still since I arrived here. I began my journey at Hopkins less than two months ago, and I find it hard to fathom how many new and rewarding experiences I got to add to my memory in merely these few weeks. I only listed a handful in this article, and I have many more lined up already, including a sea kayaking trip and a choir concert. It is, quite frankly, an absolute and extraordinary pleasure to be here. Dear Baltimore and Hopkins, thank you so much for having me.
Kaja Nicolaisen is a visiting international student from Hamburg, Germany studying Film Studies and North American Studies.
