Published by the Students of Johns Hopkins since 1896
October 10, 2024

Three different restaurants to get a scoop of Baltimore’s diverse food scene

By YUYU HUANG | October 10, 2024

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COURTESY OF YUYU HUANG

Huang explores three ethnic restaurants in Baltimore, where flavorful cuisine provides a glimpse into the city’s multicultural heart.

For food lovers, Baltimore is like a makeup palette, brimming with vibrant culinary shades and sparkles. You’ll never get stuck in a rut of repetitive flavors as long as you’re willing to explore. Stepping outside my usual picks and trying these three restaurants has brought countless delightful surprises. Here’s a glimpse at three must-try spots that offer just a taste of what this diverse city has to offer.

The Silk Road Bistro, Pikesville

Every culture has its own take on the classic bread-and-meat combination, but Central Asian cuisine stands out for its expert use of lamb and aromatic spices. One evening, I visited Silk Road, an Uzbek restaurant tucked away in Pikesville. The kebabs I ordered — from succulent lamb chops to tender veal liver — were perfectly seasoned, rich with lively spices and the savory meatiness of lamb. Paired with soft apron bread that soaked up every drop of the flavorful marinade, the experience was thoroughly satisfying. For hot entrées, I opted for crispy manti: fried dumplings with a beautifully browned, crunchy shell and juicy minced beef inside — truly decadent. The traditional Shurpa soup brought a rich, comforting blend of lamb, chickpeas and chunks of carrot and potato — all topped with fresh herbs. I finished the meal with Aryan juice, a sweet and sour blend of herbs and berries, offering a refreshing contrast to the heavier, meat-focused dishes.

Silk Road is a perfect destination for a group of friends or a celebration. However, it’s a good idea to call ahead, as the restaurant’s authentic flavors have gained a reputation within the Uzbek community in Baltimore. On traditional holidays, the place can fill up quickly with groups celebrating. This happened to me once, and it was quite difficult to find a seat.


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Silk Road's pan-fried Manti have a crispy golden shell, and with each bite, a burst of rich, savory juice fills your mouth.


Nailah’s Fresh Out The Kitchen, Belvedere

My visit to Nailah’s Fresh Out the Kitchen came about after failing to get a seat at the popular Silk Road Bistro. The simplicity of their menu — a plain white sheet of paper — stood in contrast to the variety of dishes. I started with the Poulet Braisé, a marinated and grilled half chicken with a smoky, crispy skin and tender, juicy meat beneath. The jerk marinade added just the right amount of spice, making each bite a perfect blend of heat and savoriness.The Poisson Braisé, a grilled whole tilapia, was equally unforgettable, with its crispy skin and delicate, flaky fish offering a delightful contrast of textures. The sides — fluffy rice, sautéed vegetables and caramelized plantains — balanced the rich, savory meats with lighter, subtly sweet counterparts.

For drinks, we enjoyed the Bissap, a vibrant sorrel and pineapple juice that was both refreshing and slightly tart, and the mango juice, which was wonderfully sweet and tropical. Nailah’s may not be flashy, but its flavors are unforgettable — the kind of homestyle cooking that leaves a lasting impression.


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Nailah’s Poulet Braise is succulent and juicy, paired with a fresh house salad and green sauce for a well-rounded flavor.


The Helmand, Mount Vernon

The Helmand, in my mind, had been like a bard-recited culinary tale since I arrived in Baltimore — a restaurant so widely praised that its reputation felt almost mythical. After hearing countless glowing reviews, I finally made my way there. Founded by the late Qayum Karzai, the brother of Afghanistan’s former president, the restaurant was opened to bring the flavors of home to Baltimore. When I dined there, the word that immediately came to mind was “completeness.” Every dish felt meticulously refined, driven to create a perfect experience for customers.

I followed Karzai’s advice from his interview with the Baltimore Magazine and started with the signature Kaddo Borwani — pan-fried baby pumpkin draped in a silky, garlic yogurt sauce. The pumpkin had an almost marshmallow-like texture, soft and delicate, enveloping my palate with its sweetness, which lingered and made me crave more. 

For the entrée, I chose the Mantwo, a pastry filled with shredded beef — served on yogurt and topped with carrots, yellow split peas and beef sauce. The Mantwo shattered my preconceived notion that meat is best left unground. Despite being ground, the meat retained its earthy, primal flavor, with the spices and sauce seeping into every tender bite. The stewed sabzy (spinach) was silky and tender, serving as a brief respite amidst the rich flavors of the meal. And no meal at The Helmand would be complete without a basket of freshly baked naan, pulled straight from their oven. Tearing apart the puffy, foot-shaped bread and dipping it into the thick, slightly sticky sauces brought a deep sense of satisfaction.

The warm hospitality, the smiles across the restaurant, and the staff’s courteous service made it a true feast, one that will undoubtedly bring me back again.


COURTESY OF YUYU HUANG

The Helmand’s signature Kaddo Borwani, with its deep, sweet flavors, awakens your taste buds, setting the stage for the feast to come.


For me, food is a way to learn and connect with different cultures, a way to tune in to the subtle stories told in the corners of every town and street. It’s like wandering through a living museum, where every dish offers a new lesson. Exploring these restaurants has deepened my understanding of Baltimore’s rich, multicultural heart. I’ll keep following my taste buds, ready to uncover new flavors around every corner as I continue my explorations.


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