As a double major in political science and archaeology who is also studying Arabic, studying abroad in Amman, Jordan was an obvious choice for me. It wasn’t as obvious to my family and many of my friends, who asked things like, ”Is it a safe?” or “Will you have to wear a burka?”
I answered with long explanations about how safe Jordan is and that it is a tolerant country, where modern and traditional cultures coexist. I knew these things to be true, but other than that, admittedly, I had no idea what living in Jordan for four months would be like or what the practical aspects of life would be. Before I arrived, I knew nothing about the host family I would be living with, where anything in the city was or how I would be getting around.
After the program orientation, I met my host family. They were (and have remained) welcoming and kind, and they made me feel right at home. However, the first week here was inevitably a time of adjustment, a little uncomfortable and, at times, awkward. We are all still getting to know each other, and although I can speak to them in Fus’ha (or formal) Arabic well enough, they speak to me in the Jordanian dialect, which I am still learning. The difference between formal Arabic and Arabic as it is spoken is one of the biggest challenges I’ve faced here.
The formal Arabic taught in college classes is not used by local people in any Arabic country. Each country or region has its own dialect, and although there are similarities between the local dialects and formal Arabic, they are very different. There is also a big gap between the vocabulary in the textbook and the vocabulary you realize you need in everyday life. The textbook never managed to teach us the words “laundry” or “stoplight.”
Language has been an issue, but the other big challenge in my life here is taxi drivers! Taxis are really the only reliable way to get around in Amman. Buses are the only public transportation, and they are often unreliable and generally unsafe for women. I stand out clearly as a foreigner here, and often taxi drivers will pretend as if they don’t understand me, take me an unnecessarily long way or try to overcharge me.
While this also happens with taxi drivers in Baltimore, I unfortunately didn’t have the Arabic vocabulary to say “I know you’re ripping me off.” But after many of these taxi rides and with help from my host family, I have been able to figure out my way around the city well enough to give them specific directions to where I need to go.
Jordan is an extremely beautiful country, rich in history and culture and has kind, friendly people. I recently visited two very beautiful ancient sites, Umm Qais and Jerash. Both have magnificent Roman ruins, but unlike in other parts of the world, here one is able to walk amongst them; there are no roped off sections. From the highest point at Umm Qais, I was able to see Syria, Lebanon, the Golan Heights, Israel and Palestine.
Unfortunately, like Syria, Jordan has been in the news recently, and the media coverage has caused anxiety among my family and friends at home. The Jordanian people were outraged and heartbroken over the brutal death of the Jordanian pilot by ISIS (or da’esh, the Arabic name for the group). To mourn the pilot’s death, thousands of people carried pictures of him in a large, peaceful demonstration in Amman. Queen Rania of Jordan walked with the people in a show of solidarity. Since then, people still talk about how sad it is, but they continue on with their daily lives, going to work and school, running errands, visiting with friends and generally enjoying life.
For instance, yesterday Amman had a rare snowfall, and the whole extended family — me included — went out to play in the snow and have a snowball fight followed by a supper of hot soup and a cozy movie night. I feel safe here, and in many ways, I find that Amman is a safer city than Baltimore.
In fact, many people here say that because of what they see on the news, they are afraid of America and how violent it is, especially after the Chapel Hill shooting. After receiving so many emails about robberies around campus, I don’t necessarily disagree. While I came here to improve my Arabic and to experience the everyday life, I feel I have already learned so much more. While I can’t say I’m one of those students whose “life is completely changed” by studying abroad, I do know that my time here has given me a changed perspective.
