T
ucked away in the heart of Fed Hill is the one-year old Centro Tapas Bar. Centro is without a doubt a top-five eatery in Baltimore. If you like to dabble in all sorts of creatively composed cuisine, this is the place for you.
There are not more than eight tables in the restaurant. Upon walking in, one is immediately struck by devilishly intriguing scents coming from the exposed kitchen in front of the entrance. Dinner takes place in an adjoining room. A bar is also situated in this room, seating up to four diners on stainless steel bar stools. The dining room is starkly decorated. It has minimalist artwork, a neutrally colored composition and boasts a mixture of private and more communal-esque tables.
As per usual, I dined with my committed food-crawl partner. As mentioned in previous columns, she is a borderline professional eater. Something else we have in common? We rarely like to order entrées. Instead, we usually opt for two appetizers. This typically allows for more noticeably detailed fare, room for dessert, and a less financially menacing check. As I alluded to in my column about Mezze, I would rather have a Zucchini Fritter, a taste of Spinach Pie and a couple tablespoons of Tzatziki than a salad and steak. What is better than tasting multiple and varying dishes?
This is the beauty of Tapas. There are no entrées. Every dish on the menu, hot and cold, is conceived and presented with the intention that each diner is going to order three to four small dishes as opposed to one large one. The portions get smaller and the dishes more flavorful. The chefs are forced to a pinnacle of creativity since each dish is the same size. There is no room to lag behind.
We started with a Charcuterie; three meats, two cheeses. My favorite meat was the Soppressata, a form of Italian salami. It was the perfect amalgam of spice and tenderness. The key was how thinly and delicately the meat was sliced. It was the perfect amuse bouche to get the meal going. The overall favorite cheese of the table was a goat’s milk cheese-tart. To fully enjoy the Charcuterie we wrapped each cheese in each meat. This gives way to an unprecedented amount of flavor. A citrus palette cleanser is served for each diner.
The Lobster Croquettes with Truffle Oil Aioli arrived next. These were so good we ended up ordering a second round. Diced lobster meat is battered and fried in a bite-sized ball. A dollop of Truffle Oil Aioli is situated underneath and directly on top of each ball. Whereas one might expect a restaurant to skimp on fresh lobster meat, particularly in something that is deep fried, this was not the case. I was pleasantly surprised by the undeniable taste of fresh lobster in each bite. The Truffle Oil Aioli adds a buttery, truffle-y smoothness. This contrasts against each crunchy, fish-filled croquette. These were truly divine. Four come in an order, so prepare accordingly upon ordering.
Next came the Baked Goat Cheese. Plated on a scorching skillet, the goat cheese was bathed in a smoky, peppery tomato sauce that tasted as if it had been made on a wood-fire stove. The dish would have benefitted from less pepper. The inordinate amount of pepper masked the inherently tart goat cheese to an uncomfortable degree. Allowing the natural flavors of tomato and goat’s milk to shine through would be beneficial to the dish.
Second only to the Lobster Croquettes was the Seafood Paella. The dish can be ordered in a small or large portion. We opted for the small to save room for more. This dish, too, arrived in a sizzling metal skillet. Hand-cooked rice was practically bubbling in a seasoned tomato sauce when it arrived at the table. Prawns, mussels and clams sat atop the dish. It was impressively flavorful. The fish accented the seasoned tomato in an inventive way. There was also more than enough rice in the small portion for two people to share.
Once the wait staff found out I was writing this column, they immediately sent over a free dessert. A bowl containing four to five Churros, deep-fried strips of dough covered in sugar and cinnamon, arrived at the table. There was a chilled chocolate sauce served on the side. I am not personally a fan of Churros, but I was assured that these were top-notch.
Our server could not have been more knowledgeable and accommodating. He was impressively informed on every item, particularly the meat and cheese options in the Charcuterie. It also did not hurt that he made an on-the-spot champagne recommendation (a delightfully bubbly rose) and suggested the White Sangria to welcome the beginning of spring (second to none) to the over-21 diner. Watch your alcohol consumption, and Centro is sure to be affordable, delicious and the best under-the-radar Tapas powerhouse.
