Published by the Students of Johns Hopkins since 1896
November 25, 2024

My Big Fat Greek Town: B'more's best in ethnic eats

By Megan Waitkoff | March 11, 2004

Smash some plates, dance a few dances and bond in brotherhood with a home-cooked meal.

Okay, so you can't smash the plates, but the dining experience in Baltimore's Greek Town shows there's so much more to Greek life than sororities and fraternities, with a culture that always celebrates real history, real families and really good food.

Our local Mediterranean Mecca is a community comprising eight by 13 city blocks a short drive east of Fells Point on Eastern Avenue. Mostly catering to the locals, Greek Town gives the impression of being "homely," rather than "touristy" -- a rarity in Baltimore dining.

Families in the area have perfected century-old Greek recipes, and everyone is invited to the table at their restaurants. Check out these classic venues, and your taste buds will thank you for venturing past the Hopkins three-block radius.

Ikaros Restaurant (4805 Eastern Ave.) has been owned and operated by the Kohilas family since 1969. Open six days per week (Sun.-Thurs., 11 a.m.-10 p.m., Fri.-Sat., 11 a.m.-11 p.m.), Ikaros offers a truly Grecian dining experience. Choose from eight different kinds of lamb while admiring the paintings and photographs of classic Mediterranean scenes and relaxing in the blue and white decor. Start off with a serving of Saganaki, or "flaming cheese." Kefalograviera Cheese, imported from Greece, is heated in a frying pan with melted butter.

Things really get sizzling, literally, when the chef adds in a touch of lemon juice. But don't fill up on appetizers. According to owner Theodosis Kohilas, the lamb kapama is one of their signature dishes. The dish is cooked with pepper, garlic and tomato paste and comes with an order of rice pilaf.

Ikaros also offers Moussaka, a Greek specialty made with eggplant, zucchini and imported Romano Greek cheese. While you're at it, why not throw in an order of calamari (fried squid) and crab philo? A typical dinner at Ikaros ranges from $10-$18.95.

A newer gem of Eastern Avenue is Acropolis (4718 Eastern Ave.), a Greek Town tradition since December of 1987. Owned by the Avgerinos family, Acropolis is open Sunday through Thursday from 11 a.m. to 10 p.m., and Friday and Saturday from 11 a.m. to 11 p.m. The blue and white stucco walls and white tablecloths will make you feel right at home in this restaurant, which mostly caters to local families.

Fresh fish cooked with olive oil and oregano and served whole is one of the most popular dinner dishes, according to Manager George Avgerinos. The braised lamb and jumbo crab cakes also are some of the restaurant's signature dishes.

Don't forget to save room for dessert. Acropolis offers galaktoboureko, an egg and lemon custard wrapped in philo dough, and a dinner is not complete without an order of kataifi. Similar to baklava, the Grecian delicacy is made with nuts, cinnamon, brown sugar, honey and shredded philo dough. The paintings on the wall, done by local artist George Panagakos, make the feast an expedition into Grecian art and cuisine. An average dinner should run close to $15.

Samos Restaurant (600 S. Oldham St.) has something for everyone -- Greek lovers and Italian fans alike. Fresh baked pizza is served with "Italian-style pizza sauce," with Italian sausage and gyro as two possible toppings. Traditional seafood platters and chopped sirloin steak are served with pita bread, and who can resist an appetizer of octopus marinated in olive oil, garlic and oregano?

The taste buds really start talking when you order one of Samos' specialties. The pride of the restaurant is the combination platter "Pekilia," which consists of souvlaki (chicken, pork or lamb wrapped in a pita), gyro, spinach pie and dolmades (grape leaves stuffed with rice and ground beef). A typical dinner platter costs between $9.50 and $16.75.

For those who are less adventurous, Samos also offers a wide variety of subs and sandwiches. Open Monday through Saturday from 10 a.m. to 10 p.m., this restaurant is sure to fill your stomach for days to come -- even if you're on the run. Samos has a complete carry out menu.

The Greek Village Bakery and Delicatessen (4711 Eastern Ave.) is a signature of the neighborhood and offers some of the best desserts in town for those who want to grab it and go. Baklava and other European pastries are baked fresh daily, but you better get in quick for the Kataisi. According to owner John Avgerinos, he only makes one tray a day. The bakery is open Monday through Saturday from 9 a.m. to 7 p.m., and Sunday from 9 a.m. to 4 p.m.

Greek Town harbors a food fare for the eclectic tastes, and the cultured cuisines make diners ache for a good old-fashioned family meal. Now that's something to celebrate! Opa!


Have a tip or story idea?
Let us know!

News-Letter Magazine
Multimedia
Hoptoberfest 2024
Leisure Interactive Food Map