Descending into the cellar dining rooms of Tio Pepe one frigid Sunday night in January, I was surprised to find a bustling Spanish restaurant, the space between its whitewashed dining room walls completely packed with clientele. For this Mount Vernon restaurant to attract so many people on such a cold day, Tio Pepe must hold something truly promising. After sitting for a few minutes in the festive yet classy environment created by the friendly servers and teh elegant decorations, it became clear that the atmosphere at Tio Pepe is distinctive and refreshing.
This is one of the many reasons that Tio Pepe has been a successful and popular Baltimore institution for over thirty years. Another reason is the menu, which represents all regions of Spain.
The generously portioned entr??es range from luscious sole saut??ed in bananas and covered in hollandaise sauce to veal medallions simmered in a sweet, creamy port sauce and Basque-style red snapper. The filet mignon is a succulent three inches thick with a flavorful b??arnaise sauce, thereby satisfying anyone's desire for a juicy steak. The suckling pig and the Spanish prawns are truly decadent, though the real star dish is the paella--a m??lange of saffron rice, chicken, veal, lobster, chorizo, shrimp, clams, and mussels. However, keep in mind that perfection takes time; the paella takes about twenty-five minutes to make.
For appetizers, be certain to sample the mushrooms from the caves of Segovia, though pass up the escargot, being as they're on the gritty side. Try the popular pine nut cake-roll for dessert, one of several lighter-than-air, whipped cream-based concoctions or save room for the chocolate souffl??, a personal favorite. Wash the meal down with what is disputably the best sangria in Baltimore.
Tio Pepe exudes old world Baltimore charm as the place for special-occasion Spanish treats. Candles illuminate the walls of these cellar dining rooms; white tablecloths and soft lighting lend a serene touch to this cozy subterranean labyrinth. The walls are decorated with brightly colored Spanish pottery and the tables are adorned with Sangria pitchers.
The buzzing atmosphere is the epitome of romantic (can someone say Valentine's Day?) Perhaps the only thing that detracts from all this elegance is the fact that the menus are dirty.
On the surface, Tio Pepe is a solidly good restaurant: interesting, satisfying superior entr??es, cool candle-lit ambiance, and a staff that is consistently friendly and helpful. The popularity and the fact that Tio Pepe has been in Baltimore for over thirty years attests to its quality, as does the fact reservations are not just recommended but essential.
However, this picky eater left longing for something more. While the quality of Tio Pepe is undisputed, its character is better suited to my grandparent's generation than mine.
Out-of-style, Tio Pepe comes off as more than a little bit frumpy. If you're searching for a glitzy, New York style restaurant with a flashy, daring menu, trendy d??cor, and a supercilious waiter, then this is not your kind of place. Granted, if you want traditional, elegant, old-world dining and impressive Spanish cuisine, Tio Pepe is the spot for you.
Of course, romance, charm, and elegance translate into "not cheap." If you feel the atmosphere of Tio Pepe is for you, be prepared to shell out twenty-five dollars and up for an entr??e, another reason why the clientele is primarily old enough to make you feel like you're back in kindergarten.
Bottom line: Tio Pepe is great for special occasions, but the next time I'm going to shell out my hard earned cash, I'm going to do it at a far glitzier place.
